dosa

“Snap, Crackle & Pop” Indian Street Snacks

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Who doesn’t love eating by texture? And both savory South Indian street snacks and Bangladeshi sweets are perfect for this.  Crackly, sensuous, intensely seasoned, whimsically shaped, gloriously colorful, Indian snacks are irresistible.  They provide the same “snap, crackle and pop” as the iconic American cold cereal, crispy fried chicken, potato chips and onion rings but with a healthy twist on top of it.

Vegetable Pakoras look like festive holiday wreaths in brilliant hues of sunrise-sunset orange.  And an array of vegetables is added to the crunchy cousin of the American onion ring.

Vegetable Pakoras

Thinly sliced red onion, matchstick carrots, potatoes, fennel seed powder, and cilantro are mixed with garbanzo flour (Besan) and water and dropped by random hands full into boiling vegetable oil until golden and crispy. Served with mint chutney for dipping.

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Puffy, cloud-like “Puri” at Annapurna’s Southern Indian Vegetarian Restaurant is also atop of the “crunch” list.   These clouds of fried unleavened Indian bread could be a “kissing cousin” to an American southern popover.

Puri

 

Crumbly, southern Indian, Idly, (on the left and Vada on the right below) savory little flat cakes, are eaten for breakfast.  The spongy cakes are equally as satisfying as savory snacks and are eaten for every meal and snack by Indian college students.  Idly are prepared from a rice and urad batter, poured into molds and steamed.

Vada

Diners “in the know” prefer Idly soaked in sambar.  It lends the little cakes a completely different taste by infusing them with an earthy, hearty, subtle flavor. Sambar is a stewed dish made with toovar (pigeon pea) dal, tamarind, vegetables, and spices.

Another healthy snack, Vada, a savory cousin of the American doughnut, is here soaked in the sambar.

Vada

The Rava Dosa crepe adds an unexpected texture to its western counterpart.   The crepes, shown above, actually precede the western favorite by centuries.

Rava Dosa

The crepe, when folded rather than rolled, leads to a softer, less crunchy consistency.  For us, as with western crepes, the wonderful taste and purity of the crepe alone are more than enough for a pleasing bite.

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Dosas, yet another Indian counterpart to the American “doughnuts” and “crepes” and “popovers” originated in the Udupi subcuisine of South India. The Mysore Masala Dosa adds red hot chutney, affectionately called “gunpowder,” in with the bhaji or spiced potato amalgam).  It is named in honor of the second largest city in the Indian state of Karnataka.  They provide the perfect bite, somewhere between a snap and a crunch.

Pair the dosas with a contrasting stuffing of cooked spiced onions and peas, or the creamy, herbed mashed potato and green chili mint chutney shown here at Annapurna.
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Halwa is a rich dessert prepared with condensed milk and ghee (a sort of clarified butter), which makes it rich, sugary and dense.  This dense dessert made of grated carrots cooked in condensed milk and ghee (butter), results in a luxurious, pudding-like confection. So rich and intensely sugary, one dessert can be shared by four.  Carrot, beet, white pumpkin and wheat with a garnish of pistachios are popular flavors, shown below.

Bengali Sweets

Bengali Sweets from a sweet boy back from a trip to Bangladesh

Bangladeshi sweets from a sweet boy in the Shah family

Balushahi is a traditional dessert made with ghee, sugar and maida flour. This sweet was made famous in Harnaut of South Bihar in northern India just west of Bangladesh and south of Nepal.

 

Sandesh is a Bengali dessert created with milk and sugar.  A softer kind of Sandesh is prepared with mawa and the essence of curd and has an emotional hold on diners.  People in the region of Dhaka actually call it pranahara (literally, heart ‘stealer’) – a well-deserved name for the dense, just sweet enough snack.

 

 

 

 

 

Mayura Chefs Teach Cooking Secrets of Famous Southern Dosa

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(Roberta Deen with Gerry Furth-Sides)  Owner Padmini welcomed us with refreshing drinks for this special cooking class held on Indian Independence Day, August 15.  Cooks, out-of-town visitors for a late supper and reporters all felt the excitement at the restaurant closed for business on Mondays.IMG_0730 One was an unusual non-alcoholic  BundAberg Ginger Beer from an Australian family-owned company.  Craft-brewed for three days, it is not over sweet with a clear, crisp taste of freshly grated ginger.  IMG_0727
The Mayura classic Mango Lassi is thick, creamy, ice cold, fresh mango purée and yogurt, perfectly balanced between tart and sweet, creamsicle orange, very refreshing.
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First up was the favorite Dosa done in three varieties. demonstrated at the griddle.  A very skilled Abel Hernandez manned the grill — “who Padroni playfully told us, ‘ came with the restaurant when we opened here eleven years ago.   So he had a background in Indian cooking because the previous restaurant was Pakistani.  ”  Abel told us it took him two years to learn to make the beautiful, paper-thin sheets of crisp, lightly browned dosa and the fermented long-grain rice batter.

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The creamy white “dough” for the three dosa taught was made from urad dal (green lentils  and long-grain white rice in equal parts , soaked in water and finely ground in an enormous stainless steer grinder with more water to make a heavy cream like batter.

IMG_0739About one cup of dough is placed on the heated griddle, gently and quickly spread into a huge oval. The shaping and smoothing continues until the Paper Dosa is dry on top and golden on the bottom. IMG_0745 IMG_0743

IMG_0753An edge is lifted and the Paper Dosa is quickly rolled into a loose tube about 18″ long. It is served with a coconut “sambal” for dipping torn pieces of the dosa.

IMG_0747This oval paper dosa is served filled with a potato masala made from russet potatoes boiled with carrots and onions in water seasoned with turmeric, garam masala (a dark, mixed spice curry powder), and salt.

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The mixture is mashed with butter and green peas to make a thick, fragrant paste.

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When the paper dosa is almost done the mash is spread evenly over the dosa then rolled like a huge savory jelly roll, quickly sliced and served hot. Eaten quickly, the dosa remains somewhat crispy on the outside but is creamy on the inside where the steaming filling has softened the dosa.

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The same batter and process is repeated but made in a round instead of an oval for the Spring Dosa. After the shaping is completed  the dosa is spread with a thin layer of the potato masala from above, then strewn with a variety of vegetables (in this case shredded green cabbage, matchstick cut carrots, green peas, tomatoes, diced red onion). The filling is allowed to cook a few moments, (perfectly tender crisp) scattered generously with chopped cilantro, the paper dosa is rolled, cut into about 3-4″ slices and served hot.

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The vegan Paneer Dosa is prepared with the same round paper dosa but with a filling of onions and paneer cheese (purchased from India not house-made) sautéed in vegetable oil with mustard seeds, fresh curry leaves, and chilies to taste, spread on the paper dosa, rolled, cut and served hot from the grill.

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Even though the dosa are meant to be eaten hot no one in our group hesitated to eat the cooled slices that were left from our first tasting.

 

Rare Southern Fare at Annapurna Indian Vegetarian in Culver City

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IMG_0232(Gerry Furth-Sides) Dosas in all their glory have a starring role in Annapurna Southern Indian Vegetarian Restaurant’s new menu.  They are so much fun, so satisfying that carnivores won’t notice the absence of meat. The Culver City restaurant, acclaimed as one of Los Angeles’ best Indian restaurant, may be named after a mythical angel, and one of the most revered, treacherous Nepalese mountains in the world but earthly comfort food is key here.   In a more urban take, Annapurna offers 5 Cocktail Uthappams of the chefs sauce served with channa curry.

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Also on the menu are authentic specialties just as whimsical in appearance and also healthy, such as Vada, a savory cousin of the American doughnut, pieces of and Puri, clouds of fried unleavened Indian bread that looks like kin to the southern American popover.  Dahi Vada, deep-fried lentil donuts, laced with cilantro, dipped in a special yogurt sauce are served with yogurt and spices, the telltake clue it will not be sweet.

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At Annapurna the Puri puffs out on on a tray like mountain Annapurna restaurant shares a name with on a metal tray with Channa masala, a spicy garbanzo bean stew filled with Serrano chilies  usually topped with pomegranate molasses, and the Indochinese Paneer Chili, spiked with chilies in a sauce, onion and green pepper.

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Dosas have one of the  high rankings in the current World’s 50 most delicious foods compiled by CNN.   The paper thin dosas are compared to a pancake but they most resemble a French tuille in appearance with the crunch of a potato chip.

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Dosas come in all sizes. The three most popular forms are cylinders, circles that can be folded over into triangles like a crepe and cones, with a tiny one tilted atop a bigger one – or rolled up into a very long family version – it can be as long as the griddle they are cooked on so many families opt to eat them at restaurants with extra long professional stoves, as they have as Annapurna.

 

IMG_0212Dosas  provide a great source of complete protein in the combination of rice flour and black gram lentil. This also makes it easy to digest although even one dosa can keep you adequately full because they are high in carbs although they contain no sugar or saturated fats. Not only is it a source of protein but the fermentation process increases the vitamin B and vitamin C content.

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The adaptable Southern Indian Dosas are popular both at breakfast and at any time of the day. They are as versatile as a pancake and can be infused or filled with flavorings and spices (a popular one honors the Indian flag with chilies and cilantro at either end.  They can be stuffed to make for a hearty meal, and their flavors enhance the most popular combinations they are paired with, most often coconut or tomato chutneys, or sambar vegetable curry. Sambar is a lentil-based vegetable stew or chowder based on a broth made with tamarind.

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Dosas are only a part of the Annapurna Restaurant menu.  Thali’s includes appetirs, rice, stew, urry, pickle, veggie, raita (yogurt based sauce, and dessert served on a round metal tray with a bowl of rice in the middle.

IMG_0207Dessert features  Halwas made of fresh fruits and carrots, cooking in a heavy milk sauce and melted butter, and the Gulab Jamoon shown below.

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A full buffet of changing items includes the Far Far crisp with the fun name.

Order online for pickup or delivery below.

Annapurna Cuisine,  10200 Venice Blvd. Culver City, CA 90232, (310) 204-5500.  Business Hours: Monday – Thursday : 11:30am – 3:00pm, 5:30pm – 10:00pm.  Friday – Sunday : 11:30am – 10:00pm.             annapurnacuisine@gmail.com