The Brandy in Glendale: “Come for a Meal, Stay the Night”

(Gerry Furth-Sides) The Brandy in Glendale more than makes good on their motto: “Come for a meal.  Stay for a night.’  This is true even if you are not a guest coming for the main attraction of the hookah lounge. Hardly more noticeable than a modest entrance set back off the wide street, a surprise awaits inside.

With what turned out to be true middle eastern hospitality, Sarin Chahanian was outside to usher us into the spacious oasis when we arrived. It was part of an entire evening typical of owners, Hovig (John) and Jizell Chahanian’s operation, running seamlessly after only a few months. That’s because each family and/or long-time friend with a specialty (hookah, food, bar,) has a devoted, professional team behind them. The crew is reflective of the Glendale Armenian community, that seems to make hard work look like play.

The inviting rustic back patio dedicated to the hookah, has a slide-back cover that opens to the skies in warm weather. One entire room off to a side, is dedicated to prepping the hookahs. This includes the many specialized House Mix concoctions curated by Harry Keseian and his team. Guests have the option of choosing their own combination of flavors from Tangiers, Fumari, or Al Fakher brands. All use top-brand Regal Hookahs,

The mixology program curated by Bar Manager David Arsenyan features fortified wine and craft cocktails that complement the hookah experience. This means that cocktails should not be so strong that they overpower the smoke. Typical of the list is tangy The Shaloma version of a Paloma with Osborne Manzanilla Sherry, lemon juice, grapefruit juice, simple syrup, Giffard Grenadine, and orange bitters.

Arsenyan, a walking encyclopedia of spirits and coffee, has a reason for every ingredients and technique he uses. For example, to satisfy the beer and wine requirements of The Brandy with the most substantial drinks, Soju is featured for its relatively high alcoholic content and kick, while bitters. All cocktails are made with fresh ingredients and posh hoshizaki ice. The Brandy also has a carefully curated wine list to accompany the craft cocktails.

Respectful Chef Gevork Bazrkanian’s menu of coastal-California inspired, Modern Mediterranean food features fresh ingredients, bold flavors and the refined technique of his French culinary training to also complement the hookah experience. Chefs Aaron Hernandez and Jessie comprise his team.

Chef Gev gives each mezze plate a little twist to entice. For example, Olives and Labne are drizzled with pomegranate carrots salsa, and served with a petite wheaty grilled pita bread. Hummus is decorated with almonds and chili tahini.

Roasted Brussel Sprouts almost become a textured meal in themselves with Neuske bacon, harissa labne and pine nut gremolata.

Entrees include Charred Branzino seated nestled into a bed of sumac-seasoned roasted vegetables, which was our first and happy choice. Dishes to satisfy beef meat eaters are in a category of their own and include a sliced Hanger Steak with fingerling potatoes in a pomegranate peppercorn pan sauce.

The story is that The Brandy owners and team took over a successful hookah lounge owned by associates who were ready to turn the place over. They spiffed up the interior with exposed brick walls and modern industrial-style lighting fixtures in this spacious bar.

Wanting to add a something special to the large space, they also partner with various DJs and live entertainers. On Sunday evenings from 7-10 PM, Ryan Roberts hosts Live Jazz Nights in the dining room. It completes and complements the idea of having a location with hookah, hospitality, food and live entertainment.

So even if towering, new impersonal buildings have changed the face of once inviting Glendale, The Brandy makes it friendly again. 

The Brandy, 108 N Brand Blvd, Glendale, Ca (818) 396-4828 Operating hours are: Sunday-Wednesday: 11am -12am; Thursday-Saturday: 11am-2am. For details on The Brandy, please visit TheBrandy.com
Instagram: @thebrandyonbrand